In the good old days, toon trees were everywhere. China's warp-speed urbanization means the jungles are now concrete with carefully cultivated patches of decorative green, and toon trees are now rare in the cities.

Fortunately, rural farmers have seized upon the commercial opportunity of satisfying city dwellers in their annual craving for toon. Improved logistics also mean that warmer climes in the south are freighting toon shoots to the north, at premium prices.

The even more enterprising have taken to sprouting toon seedlings out of season, much like alfalfa sprouts. These are beloved by modern Chinese chefs who adorn their fusion creations with these micro sprigs of green.

Whether greenhouse sprouts or naturally grown shoots freshly plucked from trees, the Chinese toon is one unique ingredient.