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The coming of age of Chinese fashion

By Alywin Chew/He Qi | China Daily | Updated: 2019-04-12 08:43
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Joanna Gunn, chief brand officer for the Hong Kong-headquartered Lane Crawford. [Photo provided to China Daily]

This support has raised awareness of the talent emerging out of the Chinese fashion scene. According to Gunn, many of Lane Crawford's customers, especially those from China, have expressed a desire in seeing more creations by emerging Chinese designers in their stores.

Local champions

Another key factor in the development of emerging designers, says Gunn, is the support that comes from within the local fashion community.

"There is a real sense of community here in the Chinese fashion scene. The designers are incredibly supportive of each other. They even champion one another all the time. They would share studios to do their photo shoots and other resources. This is just not the case in Paris or other cities," says Gunn.

She notes that the sophisticated digital landscape in China has also helped with the development of emerging local brands.

"The dynamics have really shifted because of the unique digital infrastructure that is only seen in China. Being able to engage in B2C through WeChat has been transformational for brands. Designers can talk and react quickly to their customers," she says.

Alibaba's competitor JD and e-commerce platform VIP.com have also been crucial in the promotion of local talent. The two companies have partnerships with the BFC that help British brands navigate the Chinese market while enhancing the exposure Chinese designers have in the UK.

Rush points out that the robust supply chain in China is another factor behind the growing success of local designers. Though China was once viewed as the factory of the world that was lacking in creativity, the younger generation today has managed to turn the tables around by combining this manufacturing prowess with innovation.

"We hear many stories about how the next-generation of these factory-owning families are infusing creativity into their business. These are the people who are changing the perception of Made in China," says Rush.

One example is Lin Wei, the founder of Chinese brand PH5. Although her fashion company is based in New York, its creations are made in her mother's knitting factory in Dongguan, Guangdong province. Zhang Mijia, a Kering Award for Sustainable Fashion recipient who once worked for Nike and luxury fashion brand Christopher Kane, heads the company's creative endeavours.

The importance of identity

But although industry players expect to see more creations by Chinese designers appear on international fashion runways and in retail stores, Yu notes that there is still room for improvement.

One of the biggest challenges emerging designers face, he says, is the lack of a distinct identity that resonates with consumers and buyers.

"I look out for how they go about creating their designs. I'm very curious about their background, how and why they started their brands. All these elements should be reflected in their collection. They would also help us retailers tell their story," says Yu.

"But such designers are still a rarity. I think many brands often try to be someone else."

For designers to find their own identity, they need to shut out the noise in this highly digitized age where there is an information overload, concludes Yu.

"In this world we live in today, we are constantly bombarded by information on the internet and this sometimes compels brands to cater to trends in an effort to stay relevant," he says.

"But the fact is that you can only stay relevant when you be yourself."

He Qi contributed to this story.

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