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Neo-Chinese fashion shines on international catwalks

Designers pay homage to their roots by drawing upon traditional culture and countryside

By Mingmei Li in New York | China Daily | Updated: 2024-10-02 12:22
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Designer Charlotte Shao incorporates elements of glaciers and oceans into the 2024 fall-winter collection presented at Tokyo Fashion Week.CHINA DAILY

Asian elements

Through her catwalk shows and lookbooks, there is a significant presence of Asian cultural elements.

"In my designs, I did incorporate a lot of traditional Chinese calligraphy elements, for example, the calligraphy text is from the Heart Sutra, as I have been influenced by my family's religious culture since childhood, and I have a strong belief in Buddhism," she said.

"Few people use handwritten calligraphy as prints on clothing anymore, while most choose machine printing for cost-saving. However, I want to preserve the traditional craftsmanship spirit of ancient China."

But Shao's works aren't solely based on Chinese elements; they also incorporate Western classical aesthetics, creating a visually pioneering cultural collision. For example, she combines the design of European corsets, which exude a regal, courtly style, with Japanese cultural elements, some of which were influenced by Chinese culture historically.

"My personal experiences and study-abroad background are invaluable treasures to me," she said. "Every stage of my life that I went through, I will document in an artistic form."

Having studied abroad since the age of 14, Shao graduated from prestigious art institutions, including Central Saint Martins in London and Parsons School of Design in New York.

"At that time, I realized that most Americans had very little understanding of Chinese or even Asian culture as a whole. Their knowledge of Chinese culture was relatively superficial," she said. That's why she incorporates Chinese cultural elements and philosophy into her work, hoping to gain more presence on the global stage.

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